Triple Crown racing season kicks off with Derby Brunch

With a grandfather, father and two uncles who were horse racing enthusiasts, it’s no wonder I have a soft spot for all three Triple Crown races – the Kentucky Derby, Maryland’s own Preakness Stakes, and New York’s Belmont Stakes.

It wasn’t until my Uncle Howard attended the Kentucky Derby and brought back a cookbook as a gift for my mother, Margaret Owings, called “Kentucky Cooking, New and Old”, that I realized a tradition of good food and hospitality had grown up around the Derby.  The cookbook was compiled in 1955 by the Kentucky Colonettes of Louisville.

My mother eventually handed the cookbook on to me and I have loved it and referred to it so often that it’s literally falling apart.  I’ve always been charmed by the  mix of traditional Southern recipes,  1950’s favorites and cocktail party and V.I.P. dinner party menus.  From timetested standbys like scalloped oysters or easy meat barbecue recipes to tomato-based Rinktum Diddy, the food is delicious.  Of course, I may substitute today’s improved ingredients from time to time.

Thumbing through one day, I came across the menu for the Susemichels’ Derby Breakfast seen below.  I adopted the basic menu but generally  prepare mine as a brunch.  I love the idea of a simple but elegant Champagne Compote floating with strawberries.  But I  change out the scrambled eggs for an omelette and sometimes substitute corn or oatmeal muffins for the biscuits.  I invited my son Eric Tegler- a deft hand with omelettes or fish – to come cook with me.

Eric most often  makes one large omelette for company instead of individual ones.  He like to use a large cast iron skillet and his preparation methods are unconventional. But the results are sensational.    Here’s his recipe.

Eric’s Omelettes

• Eggs – 6 to 8 depending on size of eggs and how many guests you’re serving
• Milk, 3 Tablespoons
• Extra virgin olive oil – 1 Tablespoon to season skillet
• 1 large pat of buter
• Red pepper flakes
• Chopped onion
• Chopped bell pepper (green, red, orange or yellow)
• Mushrooms
• Other raw veggies (chopped)  to your taste
• Fresh herbs to your taste – Sage, chives, basil or oregano are good choices
• Ham, bacon or sausage – Either on the side or cut into small pieces to whip into the omelette
• Red pepper flakes to season the pan

You’ll need a skillet or non-stick pan, a cutting board, a bowl for the eggs, and a whisk.

Begin by dicing the onion, pepper and raw vegetables in preparation.

Crack the eggs into a large bowl, 

 

Six to eight eggs should do it. 

 

 

 

Add 3 Tablespoons of milk and whisk ingredients together.

Eric’s whisking technique is unconventional to say the least.  He  rotates the whisk handle between his palms “at speed”.  He compares the action to using a vintage hand-drill.

 

When finished, the mixture should be light an frothy.

Next, prepare the skillet by adding olive oil and gently tipping the pan to cover the entire surface before adding and melting the butter.  Lightly sprinkle red pepper flakes across the panAdd diced veggies all at once…  

and saute gently before adding egg mixture.

Ta da!

A pizza pan becomes a lid for the skillet and has other uses as you’re about to see.

The burner should be set at a moderate temperature – a 6 or 7 – as the eggs cook.  When the egg mixture sets, Eric moves it off the burner to cool and then shakes the pan to loosen it. 

He then inverts the pan –  first flipping  the omelette upside down onto the pizza pan before deftly  sliding it back into the skillet.

 

While it cooks two minutes more, assemble your easy to serve Derby brunch buffet.  Place the muffins baked earlier in a basket, open the (chilled) champagne and pour it over frozen strawberries and black raspberries. Check the omelette and, if done, slide it out onto the pizza pan which doubles  as a serving plate.  Then invite your guests to grab a plate, help themselves and find a seat at the table.

 

It’s a delicious hearty brunch.  A great foundation for eventing or for watching Triple Crown races on TV.   My grandather, father or uncles would be set for the evening.